Riding the waves...

By Dylan Lowe
UK journalist and Surf Prodigy candidate

I had come to Vancouver Island's wild west coast to stage my world debut in surfing.  Pacific Surf School had promised to make my first Tofino wave an unforgettable experience.

Known as the surfing capital of Canada, Tofino was recently awarded "Best Beach in Canada" in TripAdvisor's 2011 Traveler's Choice Awards and I was keen to see what all the fuss was about. Wetsuits donned, the saunter down to the seafront of Chesterman Beach unveiled azure skies and ferocious breezes – perfect conditions even the surfing novice could deduce.

Warm-up exercises ensued and soon we were hopping on and off the board – albeit an imaginary one scrawled upon the sand!  With mostly beginners occupying the class, the explanation of the basics of tidal observations and a tutorial on how to stay standing on a surfboard as well as the tentative mentorship from our instructors were welcomed.

Minutes of practice and frolicking later, we declared in unison that we were ready to catch a wave.

Paddling against the incoming tides I anticipated my first wave as crashing down in a foamy fury, it approached.

My fantasies of being a surfing prodigy shattered under the first onslaught.

As the sea submerged my head until I broke free of my watery asphyxiation, I digested my first taste of defeat. Around me, my colleagues scrambled and clambered before they too tumbled; the odd success raised exhilarated cheers in our midst.

Determined, another wave loomed. I braced myself.

As we collided the wave snatched my body and my board, carrying me on its parade to the shore. Remembering my training I counted – "one, two, three" as my arms sculled, before being hoisted and pushed. My body merged with the surfboard beneath my feet as I, shrieking in pure delight, triumphantly glided towards the beach.

Links //

For more information on Pacific Surf School
For more on surfing in British Columbia

Published // September 2011